Alappuzha’s weather is tropical - hot and humid. The heavy rain and thunders of last night were replaced by a blue sky dotted with puffy white clouds. A perfect day for one highlight of our trip to the Kerala - the kettuvallam, otherwise known as a houseboat.
Most travellers visiting 'the Venice of the East' will take a scenic route in a traditional houseboat to explore the palm-fringed waters and picturesque villages. Starting around 12 noon, the converted barge complete with living space, bedroom(s), bathroom, kitchen, one or two oarsmen and a chef will navigate on the larger canals. Around 5-ish, the floating hotel will join hundreds of others and harbour for the night. In the morning, the ship will bring you back to the starting point for a checkout by 9:00 am.
Four thousand boathouses are registered with the government. That's a lot of traffic happening on the waterways. The growing tourism has created a load of waste and pollution affecting the local community. Their life is intimately connected to the water bodies. Thousands rely upon the backwaters for fishing, drinking, bathing, cooking or harvesting rice.
We opted for a more sustainable experience by choosing the only ECO package available in Alappuzha (locals called it Alleppey) according to its owner Antony. Let's explain the original concept.
We started by a lazy canoe ride cruising down the lakes, rivers and tiny canals which make up the idyllic backwaters of Alappuzha. The canals were so quiet. Larger and noisier vessels can't navigate in such small places.
The captain, Anil, paddled our shaded boat through the narrow canals and wider streams passing by schools, houses, shops and even temples. We enjoyed watching the natives carrying out their daily routines and living their way of life on the river banks. Anil's English was a bit broken, but he was attentive and allowed us a few breaks along the road to admire the wildlife or to jump off the embarcation to meet the village inhabitants.
We glided through the backwaters for 4 hours relaxing in our almost silent canoe. The rowing boat was a more serene and nature-friendly alternative compared to the motorised version. With just the sound of the paddle in our ears, we laid back and took in all the gorgeous and peaceful scenery - green padded fields, coconut tree plantations and fascinating villages. It was an unbelievable experience.
After the canoe tour concluded, we arrived at the ECO-houseboat. Made of bamboo ceilings and wooden floors the traditional houseboat was docked on its own at the river bank. The unique bedroom was charming with a private echo toilet and shower. The living space was big enough to accommodate four guests.
Our kettuvallam, meaning ‘boat with knots, wasn't moving. Lights and basic appliances were powered by solar panels. So no engine or generator was needed. That's the fundamental idea behind the ECO-concept.
Johnson, the chef, was busy preparing a home-cooked lunch. He brought us a welcome drink and invited us to relax. With wooden furniture and a simple decoration, the place was full of charm. Garlic smell was filling the air. Lunchtime was getting closer! The seafood and perfectly cooked vegetables were delightful. The bellies full of food, we had to rest before the next activity. We climbed up on the decked balcony at the roof level and fell asleep.
After the nap and few cooked bananas, we boarded a two seaters kayak for more exploration of the backwaters. Anil, our morning guide, showed us the way and let us paddle tandem freely for 2 hours. Massive houseboats were passing by us as they were heading back to their docking platform. Tourists waved at us. We didn't. We were paddling! Sorry.
After effort comes comfort. The dinner was ready! Johnson cooked us another delightful meal in traditional Kerala style. We feasted on vegetables and chicken curries enjoying the gentle breeze and the dark surrounding our boat - lost in the middle of nowhere. Meantime it started down pouring. Raining cats and dogs. Lightning and thunder. Comfortably installed in the sofa, we watched and called it a day...